Blackheads vs sebaceous filaments: what helps the look of pores

Those little dots on your nose are a very common worry for oily skin. Before you buy anything, it helps to know what you are looking at. Build a gentle routine with the routine builder, or see our texture and pores picks for products that suit this concern.

How to tell them apart

Blackheads are open pores with a darker tip. They can look slightly raised, vary in size, and often sit alongside other bumps. The dark colour comes from the contents of the pore reacting with air, not from dirt, so scrubbing harder does not make them lighter.

Sebaceous filaments are thin, pale-to-tan threads that line the pore and carry oil to the skin's surface. They look like tiny, evenly spaced dots, often on the nose and chin, and they are a normal part of skin. They tend to come back, because they are part of how skin works.

A quick guide:

• Colour: blackheads look dark; filaments look light grey, tan or yellowish.
• Pattern: filaments are even and regular; blackheads are more random.
• Feel: blackheads can feel a little raised; filaments usually feel flat.

If you are not sure, that is fine. The gentle habits below suit both.

Why squeezing irritates

It is tempting to squeeze, but pressing on skin can leave it red, sore and more sensitive, and can make pores look more noticeable for a while. Sebaceous filaments refill naturally, so the satisfaction is short-lived. We do not suggest squeezing or using tools on your skin. If something bothers you a lot, ask a GP, dermatologist or qualified skin therapist.

What helps the look of pores

You cannot change how big your pores naturally are, but a few simple steps can help them look less noticeable and your skin look smoother.

1. Gentle cleansing. A low-pH foam or gel cleanser, morning and night, helps lift excess oil without leaving skin tight. Browse cleansers.
2. A BHA a few times a week. Salicylic acid (BHA) is oil-soluble and helps remove dead skin cells on the surface, which can help skin look smoother. Our BHA vs AHA guide explains the difference. Browse toners.
3. A light moisturiser. Oily skin still needs moisture, and well-hydrated skin looks smoother. See do oily skin types need a moisturiser?.
4. Niacinamide. It is a popular ingredient for oily-looking skin and helps skin look more even. Read niacinamide: what it does and how to use it.

Acids can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so make sure sun protection is part of your daytime routine.

How to start slowly

1. Patch test first. See our patch testing guide.
2. Add one product at a time, and wait a couple of weeks before adding the next.
3. Use a BHA once or twice a week at night, then build up only if your skin stays comfortable.
4. Moisturise afterwards, every time.
5. Give it time. Texture usually changes slowly, over weeks rather than days.

If skin feels stinging, tight or red, pause the acid and go back to cleanser and moisturiser.

FAQ

Next steps

• Build a short routine with the routine builder
• See texture and pores picks
• Compare acids in the BHA vs AHA guide

This guide is general information, not medical advice. For persistent or severe acne, see a GP or dermatologist. How we write our guides: the Skinova Diary team writes them as general information, drawing on product labels and public guidance.