Centella (cica) and heartleaf for sensitive skin: a beginner's guide
Skinova Diary · · 3 min read
TL;DR: Centella (also called cica or gotu kola) and heartleaf are plant ingredients popular in Korean skincare for soothing the look and feel of easily irritated skin. Choose a simple, fragrance-free product if you can, patch test first, and add one product at a time.
What centella and heartleaf are
- Centella asiatica is a plant, also called cica, gotu kola or Indian pennywort. On ingredient lists you may see "centella asiatica extract", "madecassoside" and "asiaticoside".
- Heartleaf (houttuynia cordata) is another plant, popular in Korean skincare, often in toners, cleansers and ampoules.
Both are widely used in products made for skin that looks red, feels reactive or gets easily irritated. They are cosmetic ingredients, not a medical product, and they will not replace advice from a GP or pharmacist.
What they are used for
In cosmetic products, these ingredients are commonly used to:
- Soothe the look and feel of skin that seems reactive.
- Help skin look calmer, including the look of redness.
- Add comfort and hydration when blended into creams, ampoules and toners.
How they work for you depends on the whole formula. A centella cream with fragrance can still irritate sensitive skin, so look at the full ingredient list, not just the hero ingredient.
Is it right for easily irritated skin?
Many people with sensitive skin like these products, but nothing is right for everyone. A few cautions:
- "Sensitive skin" is not a diagnosis. If your skin burns, itches, swells or blisters, stop and see a GP or pharmacist.
- Fragrance and essential oils are a common irritant. Look for fragrance-free if you can. Our sensitivity picks are a starting place.
- Plants can cause reactions too. Natural does not mean gentle.
How to add it to a routine
Keep it simple. A calm routine for easily irritated skin can be as short as a gentle cleanser, a soothing step and a moisturiser.
- Patch test. See how to patch test skincare.
- Choose one product. A centella or heartleaf toner, ampoule or moisturiser. Not all three at once.
- Use it after cleansing, in the usual order. See the skincare routine order guide.
- Give it time. Use it daily for a couple of weeks before judging.
- Add anything else slowly, about two weeks apart. This applies to exfoliating acids too. Go gently with BHA vs AHA.
Browse the sensitivity picks, or look at serums and ampoules, toners and moisturisers for centella and heartleaf options.
Using centella if your skin is oily or acne-prone
Soothing ingredients are a popular choice for acne-prone skin as well, because many people want to keep skin calm while using other products. Look for light gels and lotions. Our beginner routine for acne-prone skin shows how to start, and the moisturiser guide for oily skin explains textures.
What to expect
- A comfortable, calmer-feeling routine, rather than a dramatic change.
- Skin changes take weeks.
- If your skin stings or gets worse, stop.
FAQ
Is centella the same as cica?
Yes. "Cica" is the Korean-beauty shorthand for centella asiatica.
Is heartleaf the same as centella?
No. They are different plants, though they are often found in the same ranges of soothing Korean products.
Can I use centella with acids?
Many people do. If your skin is easily irritated, use the acid on a separate evening from other active products and moisturise afterwards.
Does fragrance-free matter?
For easily irritated skin, many people choose fragrance-free. Check the full ingredient list.
When should I see a doctor?
If you have persistent redness, a painful reaction, or skin that reacts to many products, see a GP or dermatologist.
Next steps
- Browse sensitivity picks
- Check how to patch test skincare
- Next, read about a friendly pairing: niacinamide
- Build a short routine with the routine builder
This guide is general information, not medical advice. For persistent redness or skin reactions, see a GP or dermatologist. How we write our guides: the Skinova Diary team writes them as general information, drawing on product labels and public guidance.
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